Diary of a Voyage to Australia on board the S.S. Great Britain
Liverpool to St Helena
August 21st, 1852. After a most terrific struggle to get to the Steamer which was to convey us on board we succeeded in the attempt by leaping from one steamer into the other, and although very much encumbered with luggage was pitched safely over the chasm which divided them without loss or damage. We soon reached this leviathan of steamers and after much struggling to ascend its stupendous sides we reached the deck already massed by 650 emigrants. At half past two we got under weigh, two guns were fired at the instant we slipped our cable which were answered from Birkenhead and from another place on the Liverpool side, the excitement of our departure was extraordinary, thousands of spectators lined the banks on either side of the river cheering the noble vessel as she glided easily down the river accompanied on her course by 7 or 8 of her steaming prototypes which seemed like the diminutive offspring of this huge sea monster. Vessels of all description, yachts, boats, saluted us as we passed with a pistol or musket shot, on every side resounded the most enthusiastic huzzars to which the passengers responded some with cheers some with tears as their feelings prompted. I succeeded in gaining a considerable altitude on the fore rigging where I beheld this most exciting scene, and spread out my handkerchief to the breeze in the faint hope that those I had left behind at Egremont might catch the last signal of recognition. The steamers dropped off one by one each saluting us with a hearty cheer before their departure until at length we were left alone on the mighty deep. We continued to view the land for several hours running along the Welsh coast, and the last vessel we saw this day was a small cutter which cropped our bows, the crew of which turned up and gave us 3 hearty cheers. We passed the Holyhead light about 8 o’clock and then bid adieu to happy old England for the first time in my life I felt myself alone in the world and a stranger. One half my life in all human probably is gone a new and I trust a brighter era is about to dawn. Turned in about 10 o’clock but in spite of my novel bed I slept sound until 6.
August 22nd. On turning out to dress and wash the inhabitants of our cabin examined each other curiously. Two brothers [Hodgetts] occupy two berths whose acquaintance we have made, they appear to be civil and obliging, equipped for the diggings with every requisite excepting one which is the habit of bodily labour. Opposite to our berths lies a wild Irishman, a genteel looking fellow but always in fun he appears to be like his compatriots all impulse and as unstable as the water upon which we float. Above him lies a surgeon, a serious but rather soft looking chap we shall see what he is made of presently. Two can with difficulty dress in the cabin at once. I turn out first and secure by that means a clear cabin and a clean basin for a wash.
It proved a beautiful morning, the wind light and as we steamed about the same speed as the wind, the sails were useless and a dead calm upon deck was the result, the heat in consequence was rather oppressive. About 11 o’clock the bell tolled for church which was held in the chief cabin. The captain read prayers at the conclusion of which he said he had no time to give us a sermon then as he wanted to take a sight of the sun, but he promised us one in the evening which promise he totally forgot for he only read the evening service (to a congregation of about 200) all very attentive and apparently very devout.
The immense number of passengers in the fore salon to which we belonged caused much confusion at meal times. This happily has been remedied by dividing us into two messes and we now get comfortably served and very fair provisions for shipboard.
Sea sickness commenced this day from which a great many suffered. Ben was rather squeamish but could not get down below it made him so dizzy. The two [Hodgetts] brothers were very bad. I got some tea for them for which they seemed very grateful and began to be communicative. Mr. Folks, an acquaintance of an acquaintance of Fanny’s to whom I was introduced on the railway between Manchester and Liverpool is a young man possessed of the most exuberant spirits and a taste for fun which nothing can abate. He is very sick but in spite of it all, laughs at everybody in the same predicament and more particularly if they do not fire straight. The sides of the ship are piled up with coals over which the invalids clamber to make their contributions to Neptune, we call this being called over the coals! I have escaped sea sickness wonderfully and have not felt the slightest disposition that way.
We turned in early this evening and all in our berth slept soundly except the surgeon, nasty beast who disappointed me of my mornings ablution by rendering the basin unfit for use. He has also got a huge box in the cabin which takes up more space than is allotted to him so we have formed a conspiracy against him and his box, he is evidently selfish and must be dealt with accordingly.
Monday 23rd Another fine day, wind still aft but sufficient, sails useless and steaming about 9 ½ knots an hour. This day the log was hove and published 9 ¼ knots. We were in 40 Lat. 8 Long. having run up to 12 o’clock 414 miles.
This day two remarkable events occurred, a whale was seen blowing about a mile on our port beam, he spouted up the water like Chatsworth fountain and kept the sea in his vicinity in a constant foam, a shark was also seen alongside, he kept with the vessel some time and then went ahead, we shall see him again perhaps tomorrow. This is rather an unusual event so near home I am told.
Persons are now beginning to feel more at home. They arrange themselves into groups and are beginning to get sociable. At the foremast may be seen a group of individuals reclining upon their rugs collected together for conversation and amusement, a pretty looking lass with large eyes and drooping eyelids is reposing upon a sail with some one she loves (be it husband friend or brother) supporting her upon one arm and regarding him with that beseeching look which I suppose none but lovers can put out. At the same time it seems rather odd that she should have chosen so conspicuous a place for the exhibition of so much tender feeling. I therefore put it down as humbug. Under the bridge is a father surrounded by 4 little children whom he is amusing by every possible artifice, he has made a little net work of some lanyard to protect his children from falling overboard and they appear delighted with his caresses and his efforts to please them are eminently successful. I like this group better than the other one.
August 23rd Another beautiful morning, but no wind except for about two hours which enabled us to make 234 miles that day. We are passing to the westward of the Bay of Biscay which unlike its stormy character has proved perfectly calm. An old sailor who has passed it a score of times never saw it so smooth.
We have our meals much more regular, the provisions improve and we had a plum pudding yesterday, a great treat after salt provisions. Six pigs were butchered this morning, their dying screams were the music that greeted us during dinner.
We were all amused this morning at witnessing what appeared to be a sort of steeple chase between two dolphins, they were about a mile from the ship and came bounding towards the ship at a most terrific speed, they would be a good match for a locomotive, and as to their leaps, a Melton hunter would not have the slightest chance against them. On they came, one after the other as if they intended to clear the ship at the next bound, the passengers roared with laughter, two to one the black one was offered but suddenly the blue one made a dashing leap and took the lead, 3 to 1 on the blue – but after taking a good stare at the ship they suddenly wheeled round, went off at the same pace and were out of sight again in a very few minutes. A little further we saw a lot of them about a mile off, they resembled a pack of hounds in full cry, the rapidity of their motion is truly astonishing.
A meeting has been held this evening to consider the best means of contributing to the amusement of the people on board. Chip Clubs, Debating Societies, Musical meetings have all been proposed and will immediately be put into execution. Ben and I who are rather modest intend to keep our musical powers in the back ground.
The vessel rolled a good deal today and people rather squeamish. I went to my berth about 11, and found Ben and the two brothers (whose names are Hodge) in bed with their clothes on and the cabin full of carpet bags, coats, hats boxes, all in consequence of the surgeon’s huge box which took which took up all the room. We slept however as soundly as in our own beds and though we are cabined cribbed confined yet we suffer no inconvenience on account of heat or closeness the place is so well ventilated.
August 24th Out first again. A breeze had just sprung up from the North West and what with the boatswain’s whistle and the sailors songs in making sail the deck was all in a bustle. The captain was there in his dressing gown and slippers giving the orders. While setting the main top sail a rat sprang out which had ensconced itself in the folds of the sail and ran along the yard. The view holloa was given and two jolly tars immediately went in pursuit they were just about to grab him when down he dropped into a boat suspended over the gunwales, two more sailors then chased him in the boat and succeeded at last in capturing him. These events are very trivial in themselves but exceptionally important on board ship.
Today the younger Hodges [Joseph], myself and Ben descended to the cabin to execute our scheme of ejectment upon the surgeon’s box but we must imitate the sailors who can do nothing without song so seized the ponderous receptacle of all his traps and began “Cheerly boys, cheerly boys, pully eh ho” and a precious noise we made of it for we nearly knocked the cabin door off, out it went however and was safely lodged in the passage waiting the surgeon’s arrival. Much to our surprise it turned out to be the Irishman’s box, he took it however in good part so it ended peaceably.
August 25th I forgot to state that on the 23rd the post from England arrived. How it came rather puzzled us at first. We found an announcement stuck on the main mast that all the undermentioned persons would be enquiring of the purser obtain their letters. I found two for myself, one from John making arrangements for a good dinner in Liverpool, very tantalizing at sea. The other containing a letter for delivery in Australia.
This evening, the first concert took place at the foot of the mainmast. The glee singing was very good, the principal part in which was undertaken by our acquaintance the youngest Hodgett [Joseph], (it turns out that they have another brother in another cabin who appears to be clever). The duet upon two flutes, most execrable, a solo cornet, and several other solos, and the worse the performance so much the more did the audience cheer and seem delighted. At last the concert came to an end for want of performers. After each piece the conversation was seasoned by many witty and pithy observations upon the merits of the performers whose services however imperfect were gratefully acknowledged. With all this courtesy a good deal of coarser material was mixed up. “That gentleman in the straw hat” roared out an Irishman, “a hanging on the boom has a song in his throat, sure I see the tail of it atween his lips”, to which the gentleman so addressed laconically replied, “Hold your noise you beggar”.
The scene upon deck in an evening resembles an English fair. Last night in going from Stem to Stern of the vessel, I encountered on the forecastle an Italian boy with his portable grinding musical machine amusing the sailors, about the foremast was the boatswain dancing a hornpipe to the sounds of a very well played violin, near the funnel were 3 cornet players playing national airs, and at the mainmast the concert before mentioned was attracting its usual evening’s audience. Such a conccurse of sounds sure was never before heard on board ship. Fortunately the length of the vessel prevents them from commingling too much. This will not at all surprise anyone when I tell them that 8 times round the main deck makes a mile.
August 26th The captain says we are in one of the North trade winds and though it does not blow half hard enough, it still helps us a little. The log was hove this morning, we found we were going 10 ½ knots, a knot is a little more than a mile, the proportion is 63 knots to 69 miles. We were off cape St Vincent at 12 o’clock and shall pass the Madeira Isles tomorrow afternoon, between them and the coast of Africa. As the coals are consumed we get lighter and go faster. Today we were much excited by the cry of shark on our larboard quarter, the water being blue and fish green, the colour was reflected upon the surface and we could easily trace his course. At last this enormous creature jumped right out of the water as if longing for a taste of one of us, the size of this shark was much larger than I had any conception, two of us could have easily found very comfortable accommodation in his interior.
August 27th We are now approaching the madeira islands and certainly the atmosphere in this latitude is the most salubrious I ever experienced, the heat is not oppressive and the breeze is so soft and refreshing that if we could only transport our own little island here it would an Elysium. The moonlight nights so totally free from damp produce not the slightest chill so that you could sleep upon deck without the slightest danger of catching cold. The weather since we left has been everything we could desire, almost uninterrupted sunshine. We only want a little more wind to send us a little faster on our way.
We had a sad misfortune this evening, the cook made the tea of salt water with which the passengers were very indignant, it was very quickly thrown overboard and a deputation waited upon the captain to complain of the cook, the matter however turned out to be an unintentional mistake on the cook’s part, and the party was satisfied. In the evening however Mr. Howerfall, a meddlesome gentleman, must broach the subject once more to the captain whom he met upon the deck, he very injudiciously irritated the captain by several severe and unwarrantable remarks. The captain at last told Mr.H. that he would not be insulted upon his quarter deck, he informed Mr.H. that he was captain of the ship, that if Mr.H. had anything to say to him he must do it on shore at the Cape. The captain then ordered Mr.H. to leave the deck or he would immediately be put under arrest, in obeying which order a sudden lurch of the ship layed Mr.H. prostate upon the deck much to the amusement of those few passengers who witnessed the altercation and its unfortunate but ridiculous termination, (a sentence for my Mother).
We have coffee in a morning to breakfast with the addition sometimes of some excellent Irish Stew, sometimes fried salt fish, sometimes of a sort of porridge composed of crushed biscuit and hot water, and then seasoned, some have treacle to it. We dine at 1, and our provisions vary, when we have soup we have no pudding, both are very good; with the exception of a little pork now and then the meat has all been fresh, it is kept in ice and we expect it will last several days yet. Our tea is very good to which we sometimes get preserved milk. I hear they are not so well off in the other cabin (the 3rd class I mean), we have plenty of everything, and there is no fault to be found with anything, but the price of beer and porter which is a 1/- per bottle. I am almost a teetotaller, Ben generally has my share, in fact I can do very well without it.
We are provided with bed linen, towels etc. and all in our berth declare they never slept better in their lives, when we once get to sleep, no noise can possibly wake us.
Joe Hodgetts who is our constant companion is about Ben’s age, he is amusing and a bit of a genius. We have taken possession of what we call our country seat, it is situated on the very sternmost part of the ship below the saloon deck, we are there free from interruption, we talk of our homes and those we have left behind us, our future hopes and prospects and our anticipated return, if not rich, at least with something to keep us comfortable. We look upon the waves and admire their crested tops tinged by the silvery light of the moon. Joe then gives us a song, Ben a stave on the cornet and my flute has to contribute to our mutual amusements through almost drowned by the noise of the breaking waves. At 21 we then go the rounds of the ship, visit the engine room, the forecastle, the fore saloon, the upper and lower deck just to see (by way of a joke) that all is right before we turn in, and then we go to sleep and sleep too soundly even to dream of home.
August 27th When I turned out at 6 this morning, I found the studding sails set and a good breeze blowing. On a sudden everything was thrown into confusion by an unforeseen accident which might have been worse, the ship suddenly came almost to a stand still, the sails on the main mast were taken aback while those on the foremast were shivering, the voice of the 2nd officer, (a very fine fellow) was heard above the noise of the wind to take in all sail, in an instant he seemed to possess the gift of ubiquity and his energy seemed to rouse the crew to their utmost exertions, before, however his orders could be obeyed the fore studding sail boom, a spar two feet in circumference, snapped in two and the wreck came down upon the deck, before this could be cleared away the top mast studding sail boom shared the same fate. The passengers upon deck were requested to assist in taking in the sail. We all set to work in right earnest, the mainsail (a sheet of canvass containing about 500 square yards) and the spinnaker were hauled up, the Royals and top gallant sails hauled down, and then the ship begin to be more easy, she rolled tremendously, the coal piled up in sacks round the bulwarks fell down and blocked up the road, and lots of crockery was broken. The cause of all this fracas was easily accounted for, the fan or screw had been detached from the machinery by way of experiment and the vessel moving along under sail the fan gently revolved according to the speed of the vessel. In order to attach it again to the machinery (an affair of about 20 minutes) it was necessary that the fan should be stationary and not permitted to revolve, the consequence was it acted like an oar in the water to a moving boat, the ships way was instantaneously arrested, she no longer obeyed the helm and she was for a short time at the mercy of the winds which fortunately dealt very leniently with her by letting her off with the loss of only two spars.
August 28th About half past one this morning a cry of land on the starboard bow was heard. I immediately bundled out of bed and went in deshabille on deck, the first object that struck me was the appearance of a large dark cloud stretching high into the air, this was the Island of Palma near Teneriffe, it belongs to the Portuguese and is cultivated with vines. There is a nunnery on the summit, the light of which we could see from the vessel. There were about 20 of us on deck when a sudden squall of wind came on, it was lucky for the crew they had assistance at hand or the new stunsail booms of yesterday would have again met with a similar disaster, the lower one knuckled like a fiddler’s elbow, (to use the boatswain’s expression) 5 minutes more would have smashed the whole lot. There was such a row upon deck as beggars all description ropes were swinging about in all directions, and giving us such whacks on the head by no means agreeable, the darkness increased the confusion. The boatswain forgetting the passengers did not understand nautical terms told them to pull the weather brace, brail up spanker, haul down the gaff. They hung on like leeches to any rope that happened to be dangling about and then swung backwards and forewards as the vessel rolled from side to side like so many pendulums, sometimes coming athwart one another and extracting an involuntary but painful grunt, we were at it hard for about an hour. The captain was on deck in his dressing gown and night cap, but I was in much worse predicament having nothing but trousers fastened with a handkerchief and a night shirt which was besmeared with tar and dirt. The nuns from the island must have heard the shouts of the sailors and the roars of the passengers for there was so much fun going on during the squall and so many ridiculous disasters to the passengers in their novel capacity that it was impossible to treat it in any other light than a joke. The Irishman however, in our berth was an exception to the general feeling, as soon as the squall came on he rushed down below, seized his life belt and began to inflate it with a vigour and resolution which nothing but the idea of self-preservation and that his life was in danger could have inspired. I think he will never hear the last of it. About 12 we passed the small Island of Terro.
29th August Sunday. We rigged ourselves out in our best, and after breakfast the bells began to toll for church. You might see ladies in their best bonnets and gentlemen with their prayerbooks marching off arm in arm to church which was held in the after saloon. We had a large congregation, the captain read prayers and after we had sung the old 100 psalm a Presbyterian divine gave us a discourse. There seems to be a great mixture of characters on board, men who had been gambling the night before now appeared at church with a most devotional demeanour, and others who appeared to be very steady and sedate never went to church at all. I observed some Frenchmen playing at chips which the captain very properly put a stop to. We have French, Germans, Poles, Jews, Italians, Scotch and Irish on board.
August 30th The weather continues fine and beautiful, the heat is getting terrific. The sun will be vertical Sept. 2nd and we shall be heartily glad when we get out of the tropics. If the captain would permit us to shoot we should have some good sport with the flying fish. They are about 6 inches in length and rise up out of the water in coveys of several hundreds at a time. They fly about 100 yards and then drop head first into the water again like so many stones.
August 31st I have been fortunate enough to make friends with the boatswain, he lent me a quadrant and I tried to take the sun’s meridian altitude, but not having my books I did not succeed very well in the attempt. Ben’s watch is my chronometer and I made out the ship to be on the top of the Peak of Teneriffe.
A porpoise was harpooned from the mastingale stay by one of the sailors, the skin is like an alpaca coat in appearance and the flesh is like beef. Mr. Folks who is an enterprising caterer for our table immediately entered into negotiations for the purchasing of a part of the porpoise, it turned out excellent, no one I am sure could have told the difference between it and very tender steak; I ought to have mentioned that we have established a sort of club about 17 in number who take their meals together, and by this combination we have obtained much advantage in our eating and drinking and attendance, we have one servant allowed us who is entirely at our service so that we get well waited upon and the domestic by means of an increased gratuity procures us at intervals some valuable luxuries. I do not quite like my society, but as I always treat them with politeness and if there is anything good by my side offer it to them first (which is not the plan usually adopted at our table), they treat me precisely in the same way and with a good deal of apparent respect. If my sister Fanny should chance to read this journal she may inform her friends friend that young Phillips sits next to me and though he is a rough fellow has many good points about him. I think I have fully established myself in his good grace, young Joseph Hodgetts sits opposite and Ben on my right hand. Mr. Folks is rather too far off to enjoy his lively conversation but he is very friendly and very comical up to all sorts of tricks. During the squall which took place on the night of August 28th a Frenchman hearing the noise went on deck enquiring “vat is the matter”, Folks seized him by the collar. “don’t you see”, he cried gesticulating in the most vehement manner, “the ship is sinking while you stand there like a lazy lubber, down below with you and fetch your lifebelt quick as lightning and then come here and bear a hand and mind you salute me sir for I am second officer of the ship. The Frenchman taken quite by surprise and bewildered at the row upon deck, did as he was desired, came up again with his lifebelt and saluted Mr. Folks who concealed by the darkness remained incognito. I believe he never found out his mistake.
September 1st This day a meeting was convened in the fore saloon for the purpose of presenting a memorial to the captain on the subject of the grievances which many of the passengers alleged they suffered, from badness in the provisions and want of cleanliness in other parts of the ship as well as want of proper and suitable attendance at meals. There were about 200 of us present, a chairman was appointed and a secretary. Several very capital speeches were made which surprised me by their eloquence and address. Some few only of the complaints were in my estimation well founded, others I knew to be frivolous and vexatious, consequently felt in a fix, fortunately, the meeting took an amicable turn, and it was agreed that the grievances should be presented to Mr. Cox, 1st Officer who was present and presided over our saloon. Mr. Cox made some very good explanations and the passengers were appeased. The meeting however did much good, an allowance of excellent jam is now sent round to each table which before was omitted and many other little things which are considered luxuries on board ship. There is however, not the slightest doubt that we have everything of the very best quality and nobody with any justice can complain.
September 2nd There has been some heavy rain today which has considerably cooled the atmosphere. The heat has been terrific, the temperature of the sea yesterday was 80, the atmosphere in the shade was 98. If you could to see our reeking temples and our steaming faces, you would indeed pity us. There is no remedy for it and no means of cooling ourselves or of obtaining anything that is cool.
As people get better acquainted with each other there is a good deal more gambling and drinking going forward. I understand we are to have a duel at the Cape between two gentlemen who quarrelled over a Bacchanalian revel. We expect to be at the Cape on the 10th and shall stop a few days there. We shall however accomplish the distance to Melbourne in 56 days.
Mr Charles Worrall is Chairman at our table, he is acquainted with Tom [Edward’s cousin] with whom he has done business and speaks very highly of him. I believe he has got a letter of introduction to him.
September 3rd. Passed a very hot night, many slept on deck, but I thought it dangerous on account of the dampness of the atmosphere and being rather too near Sierra Leone. We are awoke in the morning by the crowing of cocks and cackling of ducks, the hens are dying off, partly by the heat and partly by the commands of the captain. There is one cock which has a particular crow that amuses us very much, every day we expect to hear his last crow and every day our expectations are agreeably disappointed. Such is the trifling motion of the ship when we are in our berths that on awakening we could readily imagine ourselves in a farm yard. We hear the pigs grunting sheep bleating, hens and ducks all very noisy be fed. A fine large hound which is fastened near the forecastle often begins to bay at the same time which completes the illusion. As we are expecting to meet the mail steamer from the Cape everyone is getting their letters ready and I shall just conclude my present journal in the hope it may get off by the steamer. I would just observe that I am ashamed to send such a specimen to my friends to read, but I have written this journal more for the sake of occupying my mind than with the anticipation that it will afford any gratification or amusement to my friends. I only know I should not like to have the trouble of reading over again what I have written.
No packet having as yet presented itself I have resumed the journal which I shall endeavour to continue as far as the Cape. Nothing of importance took place until September 6th. We were informed that we should cross the line about 9 o’clock in the evening. A subscription was got on foot to propitiate the god Neptune on behalf of the passengers which his marine majesty deigned to accept. A letter from him was posted on the main mast a copy of which I have.
“By Electric Telegraph September 6th 1852. To the captain of the steam ship Great Britain. His satanic majesty Neptune begs to inform the captain of the Great Britain that he is fast approaching his territories and by the indicator he finds he has upwards of 800 children on board some of whom are cultivating moustaches, a privilege I alone claim on the Equator and all who dare to infringe render themselves liable to have the wrong side of the razor used on their face. I beg you to acquaint them of this fact. I will however forego harsh measures with them on your account having been so kindly treated by you on board the Catherine in 1847. I fear that my duties to the Westward will prevent my making a long visit to your ship this evening at which time I will see that the line is opened for your passage through unmolested. Hoping to give you a hail about 9 p.m., I remain – “
This letter took us by surprise as we did not expect any shaving to take place. About 8 o’clock we saw considerable preparations going on to receive the god and Joe, Ben and myself stationed ourselves close to Neptune’s throne where we could obtain a good view of the whole proceedings. I previously took the precaution to don my tarpaulin coat and sou’wester feeling certain it would be a wet business. Punctually at 9 o’clock a terrific voice was heard over the bow hailing the ship through a speaking trumpet in the most unearthly tones, 2 rockets took their aerial flight just as the hoary god stepped over the side, the yards were illuminated with blue lights and the scene began to be very imposing. Neptune was accompanied by his wife a modest unassuming looking lady, his secretary with a huge book under his arm, the barber with a razor at least 2 feet long, the edge of which was a saw, the bear who carried a bucket of lather composed of tar and other abominations as well as a lather brush about 20 inches in length, and 12 mermaidons who acted as policemen to carry out the decrees of their imperial master. A huge tub of water was placed near Neptune who sat under a canopy formed by a sail, his ambrosial locks hanging down to his waist and the royal trident displayed in his hand the emblem of his authority. The first mandate he issued was that no passengers could be allowed on the forecastle under pain of being shaved. One passenger while obeying this mandate did not see the tub and fell head first into it which called forth from us roars of laughter in which Neptune himself most heartily joined. The secretary then opened the awful book, the names of some of the stewards were called and the 12 police were immediately sent in pursuit of them, at last one of them was produced struggling and fighting most lustily but all to no purpose. The examination was soon over, the bear began to lather him and the barber to shave him. Neptune then asked him where he came from and when he opened his mouth to reply the lather brush was shoved in his mouth, he was then pitched head first into the tub and well soused, all the other stewards met with the same fate and if any bore a bad character the rough edge of the razor was used. Poor Hughes, the steward at our table locked himself in the fore saloon pantry where he was regaling himself with a pipe and some grog and as soon as the saloon was locked up, he crept out of the pantry and through one of the lights into the saloon where he escaped. The Middys, 4 in number, were then shaved. The captain was in the fore rigging just above with a speaking trumpet begging hard to Neptune to spare one of his middys who was very young but all to no purpose, he was inexorable, they were all soused. Search was then made for Mr. Cohan, the captain’s clerk, a young man of disagreeable aspect who had rendered himself very obnoxious to people, he told me a day or two previously to mind my own business when I asked him a question and shook his finger at me in a very insulting manner.
After a long search he was found locked in a certain place 3 sailors promised to let him off if he would stand 3 bottles of brandy, this was agreed upon, he opened the door, paid them the money, but a 4th gentleman stood ready to pounce upon him, he was roughly seized and dragged forward. The captain interfered to save his clerk, he was very unceremoniously told that he was not then in command of the ship and should not be allowed to interfere in the ceremonies that were going forward. Mr. Cohan bewailed about his approaching fate, the captain then sent a man forward to rescue him who received a whack in the eye which rolled him over and laid him prostrate, the uproar on board the ship was awful, the yells of the excited folk could have been heard for miles. Cohan was ducked first then shaved and then ducked again. I am afraid they hurt the poor fellow, he certainly got an awful sousing. At this moment a hose attached to a force pump began to play upon us on the deck, we were deluged with water, most of us were completely drenched including Ben and Joe, I escaped all but my feet and legs, there was no interruption, no cessation of this water spout, the captain himself who was in the fore rigging did not escape, every body was dripping with water and the uproar continued with unabated violence, some of the passengers having enlisted themselves the banners of Neptune summoned some of their own unfortunates to the tribunal upon the most frivolous pretexts. A stout old Irishman because he held he had been robbed of £40 on board was summoned. 6 police found him asleep in his berth, dragged him out in his shirt, he was so completely surprised at the rough treatment he met with that he told me next day he thought the ship had been seized by mutineers and that they were going to throw him overboard because he was an Irishman. He begged and prayed they would spare his life, his berth was filled with empty bottles pieces of filthy meat and all sorts of rubbish, he was brought upon deck in his shirt, his grey hair floating in the wind the very picture of despair. Joe and I sung out shame for we could not help it we were fortunately backed by some others, and it produced a momentary reaction in his favour, one bucket only was poured over him and he was released. Mr. Horsefall a busybody whose name I have before mentioned and who by paying something extra was now quartered in the chief saloon was likewise brought forth and ducked without ceremony. Mr. Holt the son of a large Manchester carrier was also dragged naked from his berth and in spite of his protestations of never having been ill in his life and well soused the shaving process being now deemed superfluous from excess of subjects, numbers shared the same fate, the boatswain told me that young Bright the son of one of the owners of the ship slipt down upon the deck, and that he immediately applied the hose to within 6 inches of his face, everybody in short was wet through and sure such a watering was never seen before. At last a cry was heard that Neptune was about to depart. He went over the side and soon after his car which I think must have been a lighted tar barrel was seen astern of the ship. The captain by altering at the same time the course of the ship to the Eastwood, it appeared to the spectators that the car was moving rapidly westward, the effect of which astonished a good many and puzzled even a few of the knowing ones. Several more rockets went up, and the ceremony concluded. I am sorry to say that Mrs Neptune disgraced herself and her royal spouse for she was found beastly drunk under the hatchway.
September 7th. Wind foul, nothing transpires this day which was chiefly occupied in conversation on the subject of yesterday.
September 8th. An accumulation of fines having taken place at our mess table it was agreed to have a glass of wine and at the same time pass a few other laws for the better regulations of our meals and manners, some of these laws were extremely droll. No gentleman was permitted to have his elbows upon the table or to converse or read while public business was going forward on pain of forfeiting 1 bottle of wine, or if any gentleman had been insulted or aggrieved in any way by another he was first to deposit 2/11 in the hands of the Chairman as a pledge of his sincerity and then to bring his charge against the aggressor who likewise was obliged to hand over 2/11 to the Chairman until he could clear himself from the charge. These charges to be discussed and decided by the members of the table. No sooner however had this law been passed than Mr. Holt handed 2/11 to the Chair and begged to prefer a charge against Mr. Hartley for upon taking his seat a pin had been maliciously placed underneath him so that the point had penetrated to a considerable depth into a certain part of his person which had caused him much pain and inconvenience, indeed he must have greatly incommoded his neighbours by his inability to sit still in consequence of the irritation he experienced from the wound. Mr. Hartley denied the charge, and believed that the charge itself was only a fabrication on the part of Mr. Holt to obtain from him a bottle of wine, he hoped the table would not decide against him unless Mr. Holt would submit to a personal examination for he, (Mr. Hartley) believed the charge to be nothing more than a frivolous pretext to obtain that which he did not like to pay for himself. The table decided (upon Mr. Holt refusing to submit to a private examination) that his charge was frivolous. Mr. Holt therefore has to pay for a bottle of wine. Mr. Hartley began to laugh at him and point his thumb over his left shoulder in a very insulting manner. Mr. Hartley’s thumb being in close proximity to Mr. Holt’s mouth, Mr. Holt suddenly seized it between his teeth and inflicted a rather painful wound. Mr. Hartley immediately preferred a charge against Mr. Holt, and as the table all witnessed this unwarrantable seizure, Mr. Holt was again condemned to pay for another bottle of wine. Mr. Holt being very much annoyed said some very rude speeches to some of his neighbours who made them the subject of further charges and Mr. Holt had to pay sundry bottles of wine. Getting rather excited with the wine and indignant at the prejudiced manner in which the proceedings were conducted, Mr. Holt half angry and half in joke seized his opposite neighbour Mr. Folks by the hair, Mr. Folks returned the compliment, they pulled and tugged at each other’s heads until Mr. Holt’s hair gave way and a handful was left in Mr. Folk’s hands. Mr. Holt then got into a furious rage, he wished to destroy everybody at the table, but Mr. Cox, the 1st Officer appeared at this critical juncture, calmly reprimanded the ungentlemanly conduct of the whole proceedings, inspected the lock of hair which had been torn from the brow of Mr. Holt, and declared his intention of keeping it as a memorial of Mr. Holt’s spartan like endurance of so foul an insult.
September 9th. Wind blowing hard from the south east and a strong current against us, altered our course in consequent, set gib forestry sail, spencer main try sail and spanker and steered south west towards St. Helena, sea rather heavy and some of the passengers sick again. Seen no vessels of any description whatsoever.
September 10th. Wind still blowing fresh and making poor way, stopped the engine 1 hour to clean and make some little repairs. Our Chairman Mr. Worrall having been intoxicated last night and insulted a lady, it was unanimously decided that he be expelled from the chair and that Mr. Whately take his place. I cannot manage the salt beef, it is really so hard, tough and salt that I now never take it all. The other provisions however are very good, we have fresh bread once a day, and preserved milk always and water (which is extremely good) as much as we require to drink. We had 56,000 gallons at starting and we are using 1/3 more per diem than was stipulated for. We had also 28 tons of biscuit on board, in fact the ships stores are abundant, they are giving us jam now nearly every evening which is a great luxury at sea.
September 11th. Head wind and strong current against us, our progress is very slow in consequence. We passed St. Helena 200 miles to the Eastward but have yet seen no ships which is singular as we are now in the track. I think I have already mentioned Mr. Brown’s name, we have had a great deal of conversation together he is about 40 years of age, has lived in the West Indies for many years at Antigua. He knew Mr. Harvey the Maravian Missionary who used to visit him very frequently, they often had a pipe together, and Mr. Harvey was very partial to Mr. Brown’s strong ale, a glass of which he would often taken in a morning. Mr. Brown has a map and we chalk off the position of the ship every day. He has promised to sketch me a map of the coast and the route we have taken, and with a copy of the log, it may prove some satisfaction to our most interested friends. Mr. Brown has 100 dozen of champagne coming by the Sands Steamer. He is a sort of general merchant, he has ready made clothes, hats, boots, and shoes and I shall perhaps find out some other articles he deals in. I can beat him hover in champagne all to pieces. I have sold one of my filters and if I could only get at them I could sell them all on board at about 100 per cent profit. I could also have made some money by the machines for aerated water, but contrary to the stipulations, we cannot by any possibility get to our baggages which is a great inconvenience to many of the passengers, fortunately we have sufficient linen in our portmanteau for the voyage thanks to my Mother’s foresight, but am sorry to say we cannot get the jam pots Aunt … so carefully provided for us.
September 12th. Wind still foul, but I hear we are expecting to get out of these trades tonight or tomorrow. This is Sunday. At 10 o’clock the church bell began to toll and the drummer to beat the … The sailors in their white jackets trimmed with blue, midshipmen in their best toggery and officers in their full uniforms assembled on the quarter deck and then marched to church. We had a very full congregation, the captain gave us the same sermon we had the Sunday before, after it was concluded he apologised for having done so quite unintentionally, at the same time remarking that we could not hear a good thing too often. I am sorry to say that while singing the evening hymn during the evening service (which takes place at 8 o’clock), the table upon which we were leaning gave way, and we were precipitated Joe, Ben and I and some others into the middle of the cabin by a very sudden lurch of the vessel. We find great difficulty in getting our sea legs the motion of a steamer being so irregular. The officers even do not acquit themselves very well in this particular excepting one who has his legs bent 3 different ways at the same time, and by this peculiar twist in his person he manages to maintain his perpendicular.
September 13th. A most lovely morning. We have just past the tropical winter, the weather was cloudy and rather chilly considering we were in the tropics. This morning the Southern spring seems to have suddenly burst upon us in all its freshness and beauty, glorious sunshine, a cloudless sky, and such a sky, yet I cannot describe its peculiar shade of blue, it seems more brilliant and more transparent than our own, everything seems clearer and brighter except our own faces which are terribly disfigured by the smuts from the chimneys or funnels. Mr. Brown informed me this morning of a very droll event in his cabin during the night. A Scotchman sleeps on one shelf and beneath this individual a Welshman sleeps, the latter it appears had the nightmare for suddenly raising his legs at right angles with his body he thrust his neighbour in the attic right up to the roof of the cabin and there held him fast. The Scotchman bellowed and struggled with all his might, the cabin was quite in an uproar nobody in the darkness being able to ascertain the cause of the disturbance. The Welshman awakening from his awkward dream and finding his legs in a very unusual and novel position immediately withdrew them to their original posture and being totally unaware of the effects of this unpremeditated attack upon the read of his upper neighbour which loosened all the staves which supported the bed, down it came Scotchman and all upon the body of his unconscious foe, a vast deal of kicking, struggling and cuffing was the consequence, it was a long time and after exchanging many hard knocks before the matter was thoroughly explained which excited a most hearty laugh at their expense. The staves of the bed having been contracted by the heat are now very unsafe. A few nights ago a very stout man of 17 stone fell through upon his neighbour below and very much damaged him. The close proximity of our upper neighbour in the attic is very convenient if they snore for you can poke them from underneath until they stop it. Folks’ upper neighbour is very noisy at night in this way although an exceedingly quiet and silent young man in the day time, he commences his usual nocturnal song when Mr. F. admonishes him by an eloquent punch from below. Mr. F. then observed the head of his attic friend slowly project over the side and look at him as if silently enquiring what was the matter, and then it was slowly withdrawn. The snoring soon recommenced when Mr. F. again administered to his silent friend above another admonitory punch, the head again slowly projected when he observed it faintly articulate the emphatic ejaculation “elho” upon receiving no answer the head with a ludicrous expression of silent wonder again withdrew. 5 minutes more elapsed when the snoring recommenced louder than before. Mr. F. gave him such a smart rap that the head protruded this time rather more quickly and gazed down into Mr. F.’s berth as if seeking an explanation of this unceremonious attack, at last it quietly ejaculated “is anything the matter”. “Ah to be sure” said Mr. F. “you are snoring like a seahorse and blowing like a grampus, can’t you be still and let folks sleep quietly.” The head was withdrawn and the countenance presented to Mr. Folk’s gaze a mingled expression of regret and despair which haunted him through the rest of the night.
September 14th. Another beautiful day but the weather getting colder. We are not steaming very fast as the captain is anxious to save his coal. We average 9 knots per hour. I believe the owners have contracted to deliver the mail at Melbourne within 60 days. Whenever it should happen this vessel has a prosperous voyage with strong favourable winds we shall hear of her completing the entire distance in less than 50 days.
Everyone is talking about the Cape, and we expect to arrive there next Monday. I am forming a party for the diggings. It will consist I expect of Ben and I, Joe and William Hodgetts and another very quiet young fellow who is strong and active. We shall have a tent and cooking apparatus. The Hodgetts have got tents and every description of mining tools, and the other young man has a cart and harness. We intend to make our party 6 in number. I have also suggested to the numerous parties formed on board this ship to go all to the diggings in one party for the purpose of mutual protection and mutual assistance, if a cart sticks fast 30 persons can extricate it much sooner than 6 so that we should get on more rapidly. Another party also suggested that when we arrive there a representative from each party should make enquiries about the best localities for digging and purchase licenses in the same neighbourhood about which place we should all encamp with our depot in the centre. If this arrangement can only be effected, I do not care for all the rogues in Australia.
William Hodgetts has been in the medical profession and will take the requisite medicines for Dysentery and Opthalmia [inflammation of the eye]. He is married I think rather beneath his station, but this will be rather an advantage for the young woman will be not afraid to rough it as we shall be obliged to do and she will prove invaluable in cooking our meals.
I also want to establish a public wagon from the diggings to Melbourne, one from each party to accompany it from and to the diggings for the purpose of obtaining provisions and other necessaries.
September 15th. Passed a vessel this evening about 7 o’clock, the darkness however prevented us from seeing any more than a dusky outline, if it had been daylight we should have spoken with her. We held out a blue light and gave a loud whistle from the engine to let her know we were a steamer. Not having seen a ship for many days it excited a great deal of curiosity amongst the passengers, just as we were passing they all set up a tremendous shout which must have greatly astonished the crew on board the other ship.
September 16th. Heavy head wind and the ship making very little way. A fine sea running but not much motion in the centre of the vessel. Saw the albatross bird for the first time today, they follow the ship for miles and scarcely ever flap their extended wings, also a Cape pidgeon paid us a vist this morning a symptom we are not far from the Cape ….
Three days more have elapsed since I touched my journal, alas all our hopes blighted of reaching the Cape for the present. You will see by the enclosed map that we were within 3 days of the Cape when we encountered a strong south easterly trade wind which drove us withing 300 miles of the coast of Africa. Our coal became nearly expended and the captain was in great tribulation. Several other seafaring men who were on board advised him to turn back for besides the wind there was a strong current against us with it was utterly impossible to make head against. The captain was very up nearly the whole night, our fore stay sail blew away and the fore try sail halyards broke and down came this immense sail upon the deck. We all awoke in a great stew, particularly the Irishman Mr. Mansell in our berth, we persuaded him to go on deck to ascertain the cause of the disturbance and out he went almost in a state of nudity. It was utterly impossible to write during these rough days, and many very droll accidents happened in consequence of the motion of the ship. One man fell out of his berth and broke his nose which was plastered all over, people were upset at breakfast, crockery broken and our table cloths in such a mess from the upsetting of mustard pots, vinegar cruets and tea cups that they were filthy to behold. At last the captain determined to put back to St. Helena a distance of 1100 miles when we were only 700 miles from the Cape. There was however no alternative, the fault lay with the owners Gibbs Bright and Co who by carrying an excess of merchandise and passengers left very insufficient room for coal. They will have to pay for their avarice for it is supposed that turning back and having to purchase coal at St. Helena and being delayed 14 or 20 days longer on the passage will cost them £3000 extra at the very least. As soon as our altered course was decided upon, we all set to work to make sail for St. Helena and such is the size of these immense sails that it took from 10 until 4 before all the sail could be got up on her. The steam was then taken off all but just sufficient to turn the screw and we went along under canvass at 11 knots. When the studding sails were set I took the opportunity of measuring the length of the main yard and studding sail booms which go across the ship at right angles, the width of canvass stretched across these yards was 141 feet in width and from boom end to boom end 50 yards.
September 22nd. Arrived at St Helena about 12 o’clock this night. We are all on deck and interest with which we viewed the land after so many weeks at sea was scarcely to be imagined. It appeared like a huge mass of separate rocks divided by chasms rising to the height of I believe 3000 feet above the level of the sea. The water is so deep that we cannot anchor close to the town. Our anchor weighs 3 ton and when it was let go in 20 fathoms of water the noise of the enormous chain cable to which it was fastened rushing through the hawse hole was without exaggeration like thunder.
Large sparks of fire flew up and caused a brilliant light from the friction caused by the rapid descent of this ponderous machine. The moment it touched the bottom all the people set up a tremendous shout, the really seem very crazy sometimes and totally unable to contain their feelings. I certainly cannot describe my own sensations on beholding for the first time the dim and dark outline of this tremendous rock, the last above of the most extraordinary man the world ever produced, and it was long before I could make up my mind to turn in and try to bury in sleep the emotions which the close proximity to the last sad scene of his fallen glory awakened within me. I shall close my journal for the present and give some account of our stay upon the island, and our visit to longwood and the tomb of Napoleon. I like this sort of life uncommonly. Ben and I have been on shore and have returned on board like giants refreshed. As I find there is a post for England in a day or two, I have again altered my mind and decided upon sending our despatches from this place. I have also forwarded some newspapers with a curious advertisement in it which our mess mates would insert supposing we should not be able or have time to forward letters as well as being a cheaper way of informing our friends of our welfare. The living on board or perhaps the want of exercise does not suit me but since we have been ashore and tasted fresh meat we have all felt like giants refreshed. We shall overrun the island tomorrow and astonish the natives. The price of everything is enormous in consequence of our arrival, beef 13 ½ per lb, butter 2/- lb, eggs 3d each. Some persons breakfasted at the hotel and 7/- each, dinner 10/-, it is worse than Australia. We leave here on Monday, but as there is very little coal we are obliged to use wood and then we shall get to the Cape nobody knows. We all however, like this adventurous life extremely and are not very particular where Gibbs Bright and Co choose to forward us next. The novelty of seeing a strange country is full compensation for the loss of time we have to submit to. I now wish you all good bye, and if you get through this journal as well as we have got through our voyage to this place you will succeed much better than I expect.
[The journal above was sent ‘home’ from St Helena before beginning the second section after the letter below]
Edward Towle Letter
Dear Mary,
As this is the first land we have touched upon since leaving Liverpool I thought it right to send a few lines to you to apprise you of our safety more particularly as we ought now to have been at the Cape instead of St. Helena, the reason of which I am about to explain to you. It appears that there has been some strange mistake a deception in some quarter about the quantity of coal put on board this ship, it was stated in the Engineers Log to have been 14,000 ton, and a careful account was kept of the quantity consumed every day. We proceeded on our journey to within 7 or 800 miles of the Cape where we expected to arrive within 4 days, you must know that we had opposed to us the South Easterly trade winds which blew more or less strong all the year round and also the South Atlantic current which runs about … knot per hour. This wind increased to a gale until it was found that we could make no headway against it unless we employed the full steam power which we had not made use of at present, but on examining the stock of coals we found we had only 200 ton left instead of 500 as appeared by the Engineers log (alias stock a/c). What was to be done? We had two merchant captains on board, a council was called of the officers at which these two nautical gentlemen were invited and it was unanimously decided upon running with the wind & current to St Helena to get a supply of coals – a distance of 1100 miles back again. We were 23.24 South Lat 9.47 Long East to that you will see by the map exactly where we were, it was Sept 18 when we turned back and we arrived at St Helena 6 o’clock on Thursday Sep 23, and it will be about Oct 6 before we reach the Cape. This will cause a delay in our voyage of actually 18 or 20 days and the cost to Gibbs Bright & Co who I suppose must have deceived the captain as to the supply of coal will at least be 5000 £. Coal is only 4 £ per ton at St Helena and we shall want about 800 tons.
The passengers are very indignant with the owners who have filled a part of the vessel with merchandise instead of coal, a slashing article in our journal (for we have a weekly newspaper on board) has been written on the subject which has caused the captain to hand over an official statement on the subject the facts of which I have just related, leaving however the passengers to decide what parties have been most to blame. I do not know whether this letter written from a place much nearer home than the Cape and sent perhaps a week earlier by some sailing vessel than the letters we shall soon forward from the Cape will reach you as soon as our Cape despatches. These letters will contain every information and how we are going on and every event of importance that has transpired on board the ship. It is in the shape of a journal and you must send it to all the folks to read in the order in which I name them, yourself first, then inclose it to Mrs Balguy who will return it in a few days, then to Julia, then to Evelina with instructions to forward it to Fanny. If you think it necessary to let the ladies or the Mills see it you can do so after it has been returned by Mrs B. You will please be particular that Mrs B has it punctually and request her to return it after she has read it not that I think it worth saving it is awfully written but that I cannot help with a rolling ship and thick ink. We are both pretty well and we have nothing to do but to eat drink and sleep and as comfortable as persons can be on board ship, as our voyage has been extended I shall be obliged to have a washing day very soon the shirts will do very well without ironing. I shall tell you no more now as it will be but a recapitulation of events already mentioned in my journal. There is a great deal of gambling and drunkenness and wickedness going on on board but we are fortunately placed among parties who are not much addicted to it, jolly fellows but who keep within bounds, men chiefly from the neighbourhood of Manchester, in fact our table is called the Manchester Table and the Reform Club. There are about 15 of us. The captain joined us yesterday evening, ordered some champagne for us and we passed a very pleasant evening. He retired after being most heartily cheered and said “we were the noisiest set of beggars he has met with in his life” In fact our table is getting quite notorious and the envy of the whole ship for they say we manage to obtain the best provisions. We eat more, drink more, sleep more and laugh more than any party on board the ship. I think I am about the only exception to the general rule at this table for I have occasionally fits of melancholy which I cannot shake off. I look too much into the future. Nevertheless there is … scarcely a man at our table who does not respect me or who does not offer me anything he may have, to have his grog or his wine of which I partake very sparingly. Give my love to my mother and all those you think are deserving … and if any important event happens at Borrowash be sure to write me word trusting all my letters to the care of Mr Thomas Towle. Remember me also to Charles tell him I shall write to him from the Cape. Yours faithfully, Edward
Edward Towle’s Journal
After casting anchor at St Helena we all waited eagerly for the morning in order to get ashore. As soon as breakfast was over permission was granted, swarms of boats were lying alongside to convey the passengers at 1d a head and our mess having engaged a boat proceeded joyfully to the shore. We must have astonished the negroes on our landing for the first thing we did was to play at leap frog all the way to St. James Town much to the amusement of ourselves and the natives. The working class are principally negroes and the half caste, the latter are an extremely well made race, Apollos in shape though not in feature, and a remarkable pleasing intonation of voice and free from provincialism. We found everything remarkably dear, partly in consequence of our unexpected arrival, dinner at the hotel 10/ each breakfast 7/ which some of the passengers were foolish enough to pay. Without waiting in the town our party consisting of about 10 or 12 proceeded to visit the tomb of Napoleon, two of whom were sent on first to secure a dinner at some farm house. It proved most fatiguing walk of about 5 miles with a steep ascent the whole way. We were much struck with the tropical plants in the valleys, cocoanut trees, dates and the cactus growing wild in immense numbers and a very large size. I measure one of the largest and found it 19 yards in circumference and 10 feet high. A great number of aloes were planted on the road side and a peculiar willow called Jackson’s Willow looked extremely fresh and blooming for it was now spring and everything beginning to look green and luxuriant in the valleys. We had now reached an altitude of about 2000 feet and felt it extremely cold particularly when the clouds came down upon me and drenched us with moisture. At length we saw a pretty little valley before us at one extremity of which we recognised the well known willow but not so graceful or so luxurious as it appears in our prints. On the other side some tall Cyprus trees communicated a mournful aspect to the place, in the centre of which and under the willow appeared the relic of the tomb of Napoleon in a very bad state of preservation. It was impossible to behold the last resting place of this great man without feelings of deep and intense emotion. I will however, spare you my reflexions on this memorable spot, but I am not ashamed to say that my eyes felt unusually full of moisture while meditating upon the lofty spirit that once lay entombed there. I thought of his misfortunes and not of his faults, and the instability of all human greatness. I met however with very little sympathy from the noisy group around me who were busy trying to reach the pendulous branches of the willow which seemed to have been plucked very short by previous visitors. I managed however to procure a small branch by climbing to the top of the tree which afterwards I regret to say I unfortunately lost. From this spot we proceeded a mile or two further to Longwood, a place by no means the best situated in the island.
The house in which Napoleon lived and died is now turned into a mill and presents a very uninviting appearance. I am sorry that so small an abode was every provided for the fallen Emperor but it was a source of much satisfaction to me to see the new house which was provided for him about 200 yards distant which unfortunately the termination of his life prevented him from ever inhabiting. It is a magnificent house containing 56 rooms with every convenience and comfort and remains a monument of England’s generosity to a fallen enemy. I only regret it was not done sooner. It is surrounded by a farm of 300 acres of very excellent land, but the farmers are ignorant and lazy, it will grow any sort of grain and will produce 3 or 4 crops of potatoes a year, at the same time they never think of employing the aid of manure to assist vegetation and such is the want of this kind of food that they generally cut the barley before it is ripe to feed their cattle. A farm I believe is difficult to procure and lets for about £2 an acre. The rent of Longwood house is £60 a year, but it has never been occupied. We then bid adieu to Longwood and having retraced our steps about a mile we came to a small public house formerly occupied by General Montholen, where our party had provided a repast. A little behind this house was another formerly occupied by Le Lases, the former was agreeably situated just below the brow of a lofty hill, and sheltered from the south easterly trade wind which blows all the year round in the same direction and never varies. Before the house grew a considerable number of Camelia Japonicas (I know not whether I spell this word right) covered with flowers and growing about 10 feet high. A little lower down the hill were peach trees in full blossom with guavas with some of the fruit already ripe, of which we partook rather plentifully. This would have been a beautiful spot at any other season of the year, but the rainy season not having concluded we were frequently immersed in the clouds and saturated with moisture, a gale of wind also coming on in the evening rendered our return to the ship impossible. Beds on the floor were provided for us and we then sat down to some fresh meat and fowls which were demolished at an extraordinary rapid manner. Most of us feeling in a comical humour we invited an old negress into the room and promised her some grog if she would sing to us. Our landlord and landlady who were Mulattos approving of our proposal came in to hear her sing. The old negress after clearing her throat exhorted first a promise from us that we would not laugh to which we innocently agreed not anticipating the self-control we should be compelled to exercise during the performance. She commenced in a droll nasal twang much to our amusement which nearly made Ben burst – “Twas down in Cummin’s garden a bery long time ago”, here the old lady stopped saying it was necessary we should join in the chorus, but the real fact was she knew no more of the song and was dodging about either to gain time in the hopes of recalling it, or at least of obtaining her grog which was now handed to her. She tried again, “Twas down in Cummin’s garden a bery long time ago”, we tried to join in chorus as requested but all to no purpose we could not possibly catch the tune so we harked back again once more, “Twas down in Cummin’s garden a bery long time ago”. The old woman again croaked too, but assured us we should soon catch the tune if we tried a few times more, so we at it again, “Twas down in Cummin’s garden a bery long time ago”. It was totally impossible to get any further, the discord was frightful. Ben could hold no longer and had a choking fit which set us all off in a similar manner, handkerchiefs were of no avail, we all broke out into a long loud laugh at the old woman’s expense. She however was in no wise disconcerted for after finishing her grog which was all she wanted she frankly acknowledged she knew no more of the song. A long discussion now took place about the beds, two of which were upon the floor, one to contain 4, the other 3. Philipps, a young man of 14 stone, and Holt got the two single beds, the rest then rushed to the other room, and taking advantage of their absence we bolted the door. We heard them disputing about these beds for a long time which at last was settled by a bolstering match. We passed the night sleeping soundly until 4 o’clock when we were awoke by Phillips falling out of bed, his enormous weight shook the slightly built house which was constructed entirely of wood, and the landlady said next morning she was really alarmed at the noise. Our party proposed staying a day or two longer here, but I insisted upon the bill being sent in and paid and finding the expense more than I could afford, I proposed to Joe and Ben to get under weigh as soon as possible, our friends were rather too young and noisy and were annoyed at our departure. We decamped however at 11 o’clock and heartily glad I was at having taken such a step for we heard some curious tales respecting the after movements of our messmates, not at all to my taste. We regained the old ship about 6 o’clock, and after a good tea (for we had had no dinner) we tumbled into our berths and slept as sound if not sounder than in our beds at home.
September 25th. This morning the anchor was weighed and we got in a little nearer shore. I was sitting on the Cat head watching the operation when a gust of wind came and my bunch of large keys dropt out of my pocket overboard. I was obliged in consequence to take my portmanteau ashore and get new keys, the other boxes being down in the hold were not wanted and not comatible.
September 26th. We went to church and spent the day very quietly.
September 27th. We arranged for a day’s fishing on the rocks, we caught some eels and Ben hauled out another comical looking fish called a Jack. I wanted very much to bathe, but we were afraid of the sharks which are very numerous about the island. We however saw some Mulattos bathing and I ventured in and had a swim. Joe ventured up to his knees and Ben declined hazarding the experiment. When I was in the water these little scamps frightened me to death. I asked them whether there were any sharks here, “Oh yes, plenty shark, but they neber touch black man, can’t see him”. You may depend upon it after this intimation of the sharks good taste, I made the best of my way out again and regarded my limbs with the utmost complacency and affection.
September 28th. Made an engagement with Mr. Williams and a friend of his Mr. Weber to visit Sandy bay situated on the other side of the island about 10 miles distant in a straight line, but the road being about 15 or 20. The island is about 27 miles round and presents from the sea the most rugged and barren appearance, but in some parts of the interior in the valleys, it is particularly fruitful. Joe had to play in a cricket match with the officers of the Garrison, I am sorry to say the Great Britain were beaten chiefly owing to Joe’s modesty whose skill in bowling was not discovered until too late to retrieve the game. He could not therefore accompany us in our long and fatiguing expedition. We started at 10 and first ascended a ladder 630 steps fixed to an almost perpendicular rock on the summit of which is a fort and garrison. After surmounting this difficulty we continued our ascent up a very barren road on each side of which the cactus flourished in countless numbers, also a little plant called the Ice Plant, underneath its leaves are little bladder shaped globules containing water which when you place in your warm hand immediately dissolve and water exudes. About 2 miles further always ascending we came to Plantation house, the seat of the Governor, Sir J. Gore Brown (Salary £2000 per annum). The next best house in the island to Longwood but a much more agreeable situation. From the lodge keeper we got some useful information about our future route. He recommended us to visit Diana’s Peak, the highest point in the island, about 3000 feet above the level of the sea, but not to go without a guide. We however, could not meet with one and so determined to accomplish the undertaking without. We had many miles to go and the latter part over an almost unbeaten track over the shoes in mud and dirt, the clouds also came over us at intervals and drenched us thoroughly. We came at last to a narrow ledge of rocks about 3 feet wide with a precipice on each side but so overgrown with trees and shrubs that had we fallen we should probably have lodged in the branches of some tree. Up the ledge we proceeded holding on by the long grass and making our way with considerable difficulty. On reaching the first peak we found another before us still higher and though much fatigued we still persevered and reached at length the highest point from whence we could see the sea all round the island. The view amply repaid us for our trouble, and the beautiful valley on the other side which lay stretched at our feet, full of orange and lemon groves with romantic little villas interspersed here and there upon the slopes of the hills, gave a charm to the landscape to which the pencil of Mr. Hook or the pen of Mr. Wilson could almost fail to do justice. To save ourselves trouble a descent on the other side was proposed, but being exceedingly precipitous we fastened ourselves together with handkerchiefs so that if one fell the others could save him. We tried this method a short distance but found our progress so slow and the difficulties increasing that we made up minds to return by the same route. It was now 4 o’clock, we had had nothing to eat and we were many miles from Sandy Bay. We kept up our spirits and when we once got upon the smooth road we trudged away merrily. After leaving our bountiful valley behind the prospect before us was anything but inviting, nothing but the most barren rocks piled upon each other in the most fantastical shapes met our view and as the sun had long since descended on the other side everything looked dark and dismal, and we had not the slightest notion of where we were to rest for the night. We passed some Negro huts and from their stupid replies to our questions we found there was just one house at the bay at which we arrived just as darkness came upon us. It was occupied by a Sergeant in the Artillery who had charge of a battery there and lived in it with his wife and family, he made us most heartily welcome and treated us in the most hospitable and kindly manner possible. I have seen few men with such a benevolent countenance and his wife seemed to share in all his kind wishes to make us comfortable. Some negroes having just brought some fish to the door, this amicable couple set to work to cook them and make some tea for us. They then sent off a messenger some miles distant to procure some necessaries and did more than the rules of hospitality could possibly require. We soon got familiar and felt quite at home. He informed us of his intention of quitting her Majesty’s service when he should obtain a small pension and in 10 months he said we should probably see him in Australia. Beds having been prepared we retired at an early hour, but not to rest. After being in bed an hour, we all began to scratch in a most fearful manner, we could distinctly hear Williams and Weber at work most vigorously, and Ben and I were equally to be pitied. We kept this game up until 4 when we managed to get a little sleep. Ben thought they were bugs, but we afterwards thought they were mosquitoes, the place being too clean to harbour such vermin. I was glad to get into the sun this morning before breakfast, into which Ben accompanied me. On reentering the house a negro had just arrived who told Mr. Smith our landlord that the Great Britain was going to sail that day and the passengers were all to be on board by one o’clock. It was in vain I hurried Williams and Weber, they received the information like Turks. We swallowed our breakfast in a great bustle, our host refused to take any remuneration, but we insisted at least in paying all expenses. After giving us some information about the road we were to take we took a hurried leave of him and his family and set off at a killing pace which soon brought Williams and Weber to a stand still, or rather a sit still. In spite of my entreaties they would rest for 5 minutes. At length we got them to start again, we had 5 miles steep ascent yet to go before reaching the top of the hill and it was so steep that it was impossible to proceed rapidly. We got once more into the clouds which again thoroughly drenched us, and taking a short cut we thought, we lost the foot path altogether, it was past 11 and we had not gained the summit of the hill, it was impossible however to go faster. We toiled away without speaking, over stone walls, through gorse bushes and up ascents so steep that a slip would have sent us to the bottom. I felt quite certain however that we should regain the path persevering in the direction, and on clearing a stone wall I had the satisfaction of waving my cap to my companions below to intimate that the path was once more in view. As soon as we reached it we could not help giving a hearty cheer at our success, and set off again at an improved pace. At half past 11 we gained the summit and began our descent. Williams still very slow, and Ben going ahead; we then came to a place where the road branched off in two directions, if we took the wrong we should be too late, as usual we were divided in opinion, but at this critical moment 3 officers from the Penelope war steamer came galloping up and gave us the desired information. Ben and I then improved our pace and as the road was now pretty straight we left our companions behind. I was extremely anxious to get to the town in order to see my washerwoman and obtain my clean linen before going on board, and for this purpose we started off at a run and reached James Town at a quarter past twelve. The first thing that greeted us was a printed notice to the passengers to be on board at 1 and the blue Peter flying at the mast head of the Great Britain. We could not find the washerwoman and so went on board without seeing her, and certainly we never stept on the deck with so much pleasure as we did at that moment. We examined our snug little berths with the greatest satisfaction and went about the old ship as if we had regained our best friend. Joe was ready to welcome us and was greatly alarmed at our absence. We shook each other till our arms were almost dislocated and vowed no expedition of this sort should ever separate us again. We found the washerwoman had brought our clean linen to the ship and that the silent man in our berth had paid her bill for us. Williams and Weber arrived just before they began to weigh anchor which on board as large a vessel as this is rather a long business. On this important occasion the band always plays while 50 men are busy heaving at the capstan. The 1st officer stands on the bowsprit and captain amidships and the 2nd officer in the stern sheets while the middies are running backwards and forwards conveying orders. As soon as the anchor is in sight notice is given to the captain, and the standard is displayed at the mizen peek, and the blue Peter hauled down. The vessel then rounded to under the stern of Penelope, (which vessel was engaged at the capture of Lagos and lost several men) and fired a gun by way of salute, her Majesty’s officers cheering us as she passed. A few minutes more and we had passed all the other vessels at anchor in the roads whose crews turned up and cheered us as we passed, and then we bid adieu to St. Helena.
Wednesday September 29th. We had about 300 tons of coal on board 100 of which was procured from the Penelope (I understand they are obliged if possible to furnish merchant steamers or other vessels carrying her Majesty’s mail every assistance should they require it). 100 tons from shore at £5.17.0 per ton and about 80 tons remaining on board, we also had several hundred tons of wood for which was paid about £3 per ton. I have not yet been able to ascertain what proportion it bears to coal in the consumption.
Thursday September 30th. The captain has refused to issue the log any longer in consequence of some passengers by way of joke having posted upon the main mast when we were obliged to put back to St. Helena, a notice offering a reward to anyone who would inform them of the real position of the ship. That there had been a mistake in the Lat. and Long. was evident as Mr. Brown and myself discovered on looking at his chart for we had amused ourselves in marking off the position of the vessel regularly every day, and as this mistake occurred at a critical moment when we were obliged to put back to St. Helena we are inclined to think it was intentional. The captain afterward acknowledged the error, but as all the officers and midshipman calculate the position of the ship, it was singular they should all have made the same mistake. The captain is quite out of favour and his disagreeable arbitrary manner has prejudiced him very much in the eyes of the passengers. I believe some of them have irritated him to a very great extent, and have acted with a freedom and independence rather annoying to the despotic sway assumed by the captain of a ship. Some of the passengers having taken too much grog were on one occasion kicking up a row, the captain coming up at that instant enquired who it was and hazarded an opinion that it was Vivian as usual. Vivian however did not happen to be there, but hearing his name used so disrespectfully by the captain, he walked up to him and threatened him with a sound drubbing if he ever used his name to his prejudice again. The consequence is that the captain is irritated against everyone and treats us all with a good deal of hauteur. Mr. Cox, 1st officer is a much superior man, and Mr. Gray 2nd officer is quite as good a sailor, and I am pretty sure what opinion they entertain about matters on board and the navigation of the ship. You will hear however more of this subject in the Great Britain Times newspaper edited on board this ship and published at the Cape which I intend forwarding you from that place, and I suspect that it will cause a good deal of talk in England. The sum total of grievances are these. The captain sails from Liverpool with as he supposes 14,000 ton of coal, we pass 200 miles to the East of St. Helena where we could have procured coal if we needed it, and when about 800 miles from the Cape we are opposed by a strong South Easterly trade wind which always blows in that direction within 500 miles of the coast of Africa as well as the South Atlantic current which always runs in the same direction the whole year, our stock coal of which a daily stock is taken is found to be only about 4 days consumption instead of 8 or 9, making an error somewhere of about 300 tons. In comparing the quantity left in the bunkers with the stock a/c this error was discovered which was almost impossible to have detected at an earlier period for when there is a large bulk of coal it is difficult to ascertain the quantity left except when the stock begins to get low. The delay of at least 3 weeks this fault has caused will very much injure merchants and traders. With regard to provisions, I consider everything very fair except the salt junk, and it is hardly fair for me to give an opinion upon it since I have never before tasted it and it is only by comparison a fair decision could be arrived at. Suffice to say, I never touch it now having once made a very fruitless attempt to masticate it. Another fault is that we have been very short of attendance which has caused great confusion and discomfort, as a proof of this we have taken 10 more men on board at St. Helena. The ship also is very short handed and the sailors many of whom I have talked with declare that they never were so hard worked before. I think these are the only legitimate grievances we can complain of, in everything besides Ben and I are as comfortable as people can be on board ship.
Friday October 1st. We call this run from St. Helena to the Cape our “Second Voyage”. We have all got into the usual routine of occupations and amusements and everything is going on tolerably smoothly, weather fine and every prospect of a short and quick voyage to the Cape. The next few days passed over much in the same way.
October 4th. A sheep was killed and in the night a large piece of it was stolen. It was afterwards found concealed in the 2nd cabin and £5 reward was offered by the captain for the discovery of the thief. A rather respectable individual was sworn to by one of the cabin boys as the thief, and a jury from among the passengers with the captain as Chief Magistrate summoned him before their august presence to try the case. He was defended by the eldest Hodgett [Thomas] and the verdict returned was that although there was no positive proof against him yet that he had laid himself open to suspicion and that the captain was perfectly justified in instituting an investigation. I believe there is no doubt that the man took the mutton while in a state of beer by way of a joke but without any felonious intention.
October 5th. Steering South and South South West in order to keep out of the South Easterly trades. Seen several spermaceti whales, but we hardly take the trouble now to look at them. I have never yet had occasion for a great coat and hope it will not be necessary North of the Cape.
October 6th. Altered our course this morning to South South-East and bearing gradually up for the Cape wind light and weather still fine. I am sorry to say there is an immense deal of gambling going on on board this ship. In the evening our saloon is filled with card players who make a regular business of it, a roulette table was also introduced but I am happy to say it was objected to by both the captain and some of the passengers. Drunkenness also is of frequent occurrence and the sale of spirits was for a few days interdicted by the captain in consequence, it bringing with it its usual train of quarrelling and disorders.
October 7th. Strange to say the wind is again foul. Mr. Gray 2nd officer is running about the decks half crazy, he declares it is this abominable card playing and gambling which has produced these contrary winds. We have only coal until Tuesday, 5 days longer. Another gale of wind from the Eastward and we shall be driven just where the winds please to take us. Mr. Gray is a very fine fellow with the most athletic proportions, a voice that can be heard above the storm and the most untiring energy. He is modest and retiring as a woman (I mean of some women). Ben and I have gained his good will, he always tells us the Lat. and Long. at 12 o’clock privately so that we are considered as oracles in that particular knowledge.
October 8th. The wind favoured us one point this morning and consequently a more amicable smile animated Mr. Gray’s weatherbeaten visage. In the evening we had it upon our beam and every stitch of canvass set that would draw.
October 9th. We had not seen the sun for some days but this morning we were favoured with the prospect of a lovely day. The long sought for westerly wind reached us at last and we are bowling along as fast as the wind and our small supply of coal will carry us. I must however as a faithful chronicler of the winds on board the Great Britain relate in its place a commotion on board of which I was the innocent cause. Mr. Battersea is a young man of amicable disposition when sober but sadly addicted to drinking and consequently always in scrapes. His cabin companions, with the cognizance and approval of the captain refused to have him any longer an intimate of their berth and summarily ejected him to seek one elsewhere. The Stewards who pitied him used to make him a berth in our passage although it was extremely inconvenient. Two nights ago he came into our cabin when we were all in bed (except Mansell the Irishman who is much attached to his life belt) to beg a pipe of tobacco, he was a sheet in the wind and began to bemoan his hard fate of having no berth to sleep in. I could not help in a thoughtless moment suggesting to him to take possession of Mansells berth in his absence which idea was eagerly seized by the 4 other inmates of the cabin, and sure enough Battersea without hesitation, and full of Irish fun and Irish whiskey turned in to Mansell’s berth and in 5 minutes was in a happy state of oblivion. We all kept awake anxiously awaiting Mansell’s arrival who never retires until late when the lights are all put out save one very dim lamp in the passage. On his arrival he began to undress and had almost concluded the ceremony of unrobing and began to grope his way into bed when he perceived something unusual opposed his further progress. He started back in great alarm and rushing into the passage loudly shouting “Stewart, Stewart” (meaning Steward) “A light a light sure the Divil’s in the bed”. I should tell you that the stewards wishing to put Battersea to bed as usual had been searching for him all over the ship, but not finding him supposed he had got into some hole or perhaps fallen overboard. The steward on being thus so hastily summoned rushed to our cabin and holding the light to Battersea’s unconscious face suddenly exclaimed why it’s that c…d Battersea, he gives us more trouble than anybody on board the ship, come bundle out Mr. Battersea and let Mr. Mansell into his berth. They only received an indistinct grunt in the negative and forthwith proceeded to haul him out, this was accomplished with great difficulty for Battersea indignant at being so soon disturbed kicked and struggled most violently, we all the while enjoying the fun and encouraging Battersea to resist. In the meantime all the passengers being aroused by the noise made their appearance in the passage in deshabille and by way of joke persuaded him to renew the attack upon the cabin out of which he had been thrust by the Steward and Mansell who were keeping guard at the door, having fallen upon his hands and knees Battersea suddenly darted between Mansells legs who was immediately laid prostrate by this novel attack for which he was quite unprepared, the merriment this created was unbounded, we had now Battersea’s head and Mansells legs in our cabin. We held on to Battersea’s head while the steward and his party who were now outside hauled away at his legs, and Mansell kicking and calling out underneath that he was “going to be kill entirely”. The fun increased while roars of laughter resounded from one end of the passage to the other. “Now Battersea, now Mansell, two to one on the Connaught boy”, until I really felt great alarm for Battersea’s neck which was stretched to an unusual length and began to crack and creak in an alarming manner. The whole fore saloon was now in an uproar and the people from the midship berths pressing into our passage to know what was the matter, caused a fearful crush. Battersea’s bed being espied in the passage ready prepared for him was seized and the various articles of which it was composed hurled at each others head, the fun increased, boots and shoes flew about in all directions until at length the Officer of the Watch hearing the disturbance came down and after encountering some tremendous whacks from the numerous projectiles which were flying about, he succeeded in quelling the disturbance. He then came into our berth to enquire into the cause of it but being a funny fellow and enjoying a joke, he wisely resolved not to report the affair to the captain. Battersea however was now conveyed to a berth which he never would have obtained but for this disturbance. Next morning the row was talked about by everybody and some of the Irish boys thought that Mansell had been insulted and insisted that he should demand an apology from the author of it. William Hodgetts who had certainly taken the most conspicuous part against him was fixed upon as the originator of it all, it was in vain that I insisted I was the author, nobody would believe it, and indeed we were none of us particularly alarmed at Mr Mansell’s pugnacious propensities. Mr. M. looked very pale all day evidently much alarmed at the course his friends deemed it right for him to pursue to defend the honour of “Ould Ireland” Hodgetts informed them that the only apology he could make was to say that it was not done from any malicious feeling towards Mr. Mansell but only for the sake of the joke. Irish honour was easily appeased when a joke was mentioned and the glow of health once more bloomed upon the cheeks of Mr. Mansell.
Mr. Cox 1st Officer and I have never been very familiar. Last night however as the ship’s band (comprised of two fifers cornet, trombone and tattle drum) were practising, we got into conversation, I found he was a flute player and told him I was a brother amateur on that instrument and had with me a new instrument which he expressed a strong desire to see and invited me to his cabin for that purpose, he was delighted with my instrument and after playing to him informed me that I should have to make my appearance in the chief saloon to which I gave a negative reply. In the course of our conversation he informed me that he should be happy to convey for me between Melbourne and Liverpool any parcels or letters I might entrust to his care, this will be very convenient and economical, my friends also will be able to forward to me through the same medium any parcels they may have to send concerning which I will send directions in a future letter. I have also to request any of my friends who feel disposed to forward to me a newspaper to send those relating to the voyage of the Great Britain which I expect will cause a good deal of talk in England and which will perhaps most interest me. We have had a very superior biscuit sent to table the last two days and as we are approaching the Cape we suppose this biscuit is intended for the Cape visitors when they visit the ship, rather an artful dodge considering the complaints the passengers will make on arriving there and the publication of the Great Britain Times which is to be done at the Cape. We expect to arrive there early tomorrow morning.
October 10th. The anchors are both called ready for dropping, the boats painted, decks holystoned, masts scraped and the ships sides washed and partly fresh painted. The guns (I believe they are 8 pounders) are 6 in number all nicely painted and the muskets and boarding pikes have all been overhauled and put into a fit state for service. I suppose as we have such a valuable cargo that we have to have the ship thoroughly guarded while we are at anchor like a ship of war. The fact is we create no little sensation wherever we go. The passengers maintain it is their own respectability while the officers maintain it is the size and beauty of their ship which causes the excitement. The weather is again beautiful and we are running 10 knots before a westerly breeze. We expect to remain at the Cape 6 days to take in coal and shall make the best use of our time in seeing all the sights it has to interest the visitor. Mr. Williams, Mr. Brown and Joe will form our party, we intend making the ascent of Table Mountain, 36,000 feet high and visiting Constantia which is about 6 or 8 miles distant, accounts of which and of our voyage to Port Philip I hope to forward by Mr. Cox free of expense which communications you ought to receive about the first week in February. It turned out extremely fortunate I did not purchase a cart for I find my left hand mess mate has sent out a dozen which he expects will be there as soon as we shall, they are made by Crosskill of Beverley near Hull, a first rate house, and I can purchase one for much less money that I could have exported one.
Another dust with the captain today. Somebody had been misbehaving and the captain sent for Mr. Critchly, (a leading man in our saloon) to inform him who the sinner was. Mr. Critchly declined mentioning the individuals name upon which by way of spite the captain intimated that he should inforce the laws and regulations respecting emigrants on board ship. Mr. Critchly informed the captain that we were not emigrants but merchants and passengers and that if he attempted to impose any such laws upon us that we should take the law into our own hands. We have certainly a most fearless and independent set on board ripe for the diggings, at the same time extremely well disposed towards each other, and the captain finds that he has got a different set to deal with from the half starved emigrants he has so often landed on the shores of America.
About 8 o’clock this morning we sighted the land and at 12.30 we let go the anchor.
Ben, I, Mr. Brown and Joe have just returned from an excursion into the interior about 40 miles. We have seen a good deal, an account of which I shall forward in my next. We leave here on Saturday 16th October. No very recent accounts from the diggings have arrived, news is expected here every day. We expect to make the next voyage in 18 days. We are both pretty well and in tolerably good spirits.
Edward Towle Letter
11/11/1852 onboard S.S. Great Britain
My dear Mary
We are now within 3 days of Melbourne after a rapid passage from the Cape it is now Nov 7 and we shall be in Melbourne Nov 10. I am obliged to complete my letters in order to give them into Mr Cox care before we land. You will be glad to hear that I have made an excellent party for the diggings the envy of the ship and we have had numerous applications from others to join but have refused all except two. One is a very fine tall athletic man who has lived in the backwoods of America [Thomas Attrill] he is accustomed to all the shifts of a bush life, just the man in fact we wanted the other is a friend of his a Scotchman about 5 feet 11 in very stern & very honest but rather soft looking. The Kentuckian [Attrill] as I call him is a gentleman by education he is accustomed to every sort of hardship and as hard as iron he has passed much of his time among the savages of North America and seems to have like them a great antipathy to civilized life. Many of the chief saloon passengers have been trying to get hold of him for their parties but as he seemed to prefer our quiet habits he joined us with his friend the Scotchman. Williams of Derby is very good, seriously disposed and very quiet, but rather too slow. The Colonel is a broad chested man a little too old but true as steel about my height but more robust between 40 & 50 years of age. Williams & the Colonel will therefore always pull together. The Kentuckian and his friend the Scotchman are go ahead boys they always want to go to fast. This will be a decided advantage to Joe and I who come in the middle for since everything will be decided by vote in our party whichever way Joe & I vote will win the day since Williams and the Colonel are always too slow. Ben will not go to the diggings he has given his reason to me as not being able to stand the work. I shall therefore accompany him to Geelong and have a chat with him upon the subject Ben thinks a pastoral life will suit him but because there is not as much to do and as it will be just the time of the year when the sheep farmers come to town, he may probably engage himself to one for a short time and lay his money out in sheep. I quite approve of this plan as the result is more certain than the diggings and should … be bad and I am unsuccessful at the diggings I shall most certainly take to that mode of living and join Ben at sheparding. If this should be our ultimate step we shall send for [name] in a year or two.
I have kept my letter open just to say that we are now entering Port Philip and shall cast anchor about 8 o’clock Nov 11. Ben will write again in a week or two from Geelong and it is a possible his letter may reach you as soon as this. I shall deliver these letters into Mr Cox’s hands but the Great Britain having to go to Sydney will not start on its return home for a month or 6 weeks so that you will not receive these letters until Feb.
I am going ashore tomorrow early with the Canadian to select a place for our camp and shall leave Ben & Joe on board until we can get the luggage ashore and our tent pitched and the money in the bank. Mr Attrill our Canadian friend is well acquainted with Frank Forester who wrote Wild Sports of the West, he was very intimate with him and hunted for some time in the backwoods with him. This Frank Forester is an assumed name, his real name is Philip Herbert grandson of the Earl of Carnarvon and son (I think he said) of the Honourable somebody Herbert Dean of Westminster or some other place (my memory is treacherous). As soon as ever we can get ready we start for the diggings, I can give you no news respecting them as I shall not go ashore before closing my letter. Give my love to them all, my French pupil and my cousins at the mills, not forgetting poor old John & Mr Holland, Aunt … Mr …. Also be sure to send my journal to Mrs Balguy as soon as you have read it who will return it to you and go down to Mr … to tell him you have heard from us my kind regards to him. Believe me yours faithfully
Edward